What’s The Right Active Mid-Layer? And Other Reader Questions

What readers are asking for help with this week

What I’m trying to build with this newsletter is interaction between you, dear reader, and me, some weird journalist guy who has made a career out of writing about trucks and dogs and efforts by corrupt politicians to steal the places where we go camping. Sign up for a paid subscription, hit that “Chat with Wes” button on top of the site, participate in comments, or email me on [my first name]@wessiler.com and you can talk with me directly. I’ll then use my experience, or the superpower that is journalism to solve your problems.

And because I want to share all the knowledge developed through these conversations widely, I’m rounding up some of the less crazy stuff once a week or so. I’m trying to do that at the end of each week, but was wrapped up in reporting out that DOGE vs National Parks article. But since I’m not going to wrap up the Doug Burgum vs Endangered Species Act piece I’m working on now by end of day, this should give us all a fun distraction.

What Weight Mid-Layer Is Right For Me?

Tim asks: “What is more practical between the Beyond jacket and the Backcountry? Just ordered the Beyond Alpha Aura but might check out the Backcountry options as well.”

He’s referring to the Beyond Alpha Aura jacket I pointed him towards in an email conversation a while back, and Backcountry’s new range of mid-layers made from Primaloft Active Evolve.

Both are made from a new generation of polyester fleece materials that maximize breathability. Versus the old school fleeces we all wear, these are way more adaptable, providing more warmth when you need it, then exponentially more breathability when you don’t. Anyone reading this newsletter would benefit from owning one, which is pretty cool since they’re also affordable.

What Tim is getting at is ultimately a question about fabric weights. This is on my to-do list for a larger explainer piece at some point, but believe it or not, it is actually possible to objectively quantify the performance of technical clothing, and I’d like to see more reviews and guidance focus around that, rather than the subjective impressions that dominate outdoor media.

Both Polartec Alpha and Primaloft Active Evolved perform very similarly, and are made using very similar methods and materials. So lacking a CLO unit number, we can still compare their weights to get an idea of how warm they’ll be. The Beyond piece is 186 grams per square meter. The Backcountry is 95 GSM. The former will be around twice as thick, and twice as warm as a result. It really is that simple.

You can then use that information to help plan out a layering system. Over a base layer, the Backcountry items will offer normal fleece-like warmth. In cold weather, layer one under a puffy and a shell and you’ll have a complete system. Just change the weight of that puffy around for given temps. The mid-layer will help draw moisture away from your base layers, keeping you dry, and add some trapped air for insulation.

The Beyond piece is as warm as a light puffy. So, you’ll layer it a little differently. Wear it over a base layer and under a shell, without a puffy, in temperatures down to about 20 degrees while you’re active. (Everyone experiences temperatures differently, learn what works for you.) Layer it under a puffy in very cold weather. You’ll be able to carry a lighter puffy since this mid-layer is so warm. Wear it on its own inside, or during very high activity in cold weather, when there’s little to no wind or precipitation.

What Are The Best All-Terrain Tires?

Matt asks: “I’ve got a Ranger with Falken WildPeak AT3s on it that are coming to the end of their life. They’ve been great except I’ve only put like 35k miles on them and they’re already pretty worn. Any suggestions on the best tire to replace them with? Go with the same? I know the 3-peaks isn’t super meaningful performance wise but it is a way to not have to carry chains in the PNW where I live and drive a lot in the snow. For context I do a lot of driving on crappy FS roads in WA and ID in all seasons.”

I explained all the ins and outs of all-terrain tires in an Outside article a couple years ago. To avoid repeating all that here, let me just directly answer Matt’s question, which I found in my hidden messages folder on Instagram. It really is much easier just to reach out to me through Substack.

There is going to be a bigger difference between a p-metric and LT tire within a given make and model of tire than there is between makes and models of tire. A p-metric is going to have a higher silica content, which will give it better grip on wet pavement and in snow than an LT, which replaces the silica with natural rubber. That material will have less grip in bad weather, but also be less prone to chipping and cutting on gravel and rock.

You can find Falken AT3Ws on-sale right now, as stocks are cleared out to make way for the newer AT4W. If you like them, stick with them, especially at sale prices. 35,000 miles is excellent wear if you’re doing any aired-down off-roading. Just find a p-metric in your size and you’ll be good.

Keeping Dogs Safe In Rivians

Chris asks: “I’m preparing to adopt a dog (who when fully grown will be in the 40lb range) that will join me hiking, backcountry skiing, etc. and have been reading up on the safest ways to travel with them. I drive a Rivian R1T and live in Colorado, so unfortunately don’t have an enclosed trunk area to secure a crate and am struggling to compare the options. I’d prefer not to default to a crate in the bed of the truck since it can be quite hot in the summer and cold in the winter. It appears to me that the two options left are a crate (like a Gunner Kennel) on the backseat or a combination “hammock” and dog seat belt/rated harness. Using the crate exclusively would limit me to only ever transporting 2 friends, which for hiking or ski trips could be an issue. The obvious solution would be to use the crate when possible and a hammock/seat belt for them when traveling with friends. As a first time dog owner-to-be I’m looking for the perspective of someone more experienced/knowledgeable than I - since I don’t want to compromise on safety if I don’t have to.”

Keeping dogs safe in cars is a whole thing. To recap, your seats are about as strong as “a lawnchair” according to experts, and in a 35 MPH crash a 60 pound dog becomes a 2,700 pound projectile. That’ll kill you, your family, and fido.

That’s why I installed a real, tested cargo barrier in Virginia’s Land Cruiser, and why I run a Raingler dog net in the Ranger (along with a rear seat delete from Goose Gear).

That Raingler is probably the right answer answer for the Rivian R1T too. They don’t yet make one for that truck, but one of their generic items will likely fit with some measuring.

Best Elk Rifle For Beginners

Zach asks: “I am in the market for a backcountry elk rifle (I live in Colorado). It would be my first rifle, and I want to get something relatively cheap and easy to shoot that can be a one trick pony for most of my needs - Elk primarily, mule deer and moose possibly in the future. I was going to go with a Tikka T3x lite 308. The roughtech version is threaded, though I heard the 2025 models would all be threaded. Is there a case to go with the 7mm Backcountry instead? or would that be something to look at in the future as I get more experienced?”

When it comes to lethality on game, what matter is shot placement and bullet construction. You don’t need any latest and greatest caliber, or an elephant gun to take ungulates.

If you’re new to shooting, you need to practice. So, you’ll be best served by a caliber that offers affordable ammo, and as little recoil as possible. Then go practice!

In the (partially remembered) words of Kevin Brittingham, “There’s nothing that 308 does that 6.5 Creedmoor can’t, just with lower recoil.”

If I was Zach, I’d buy a Ruger American Hunter, which comes with a Magpul stock, and accepts box magazines. Together, those will add stability and make operating the rifle easier, all in a gun capable of sub-MOA accuracy. Not bad for a street price of about $750. Pair one with a Maven RS.1 scope, plus whatever bipod strikes your fancy, and you’ll be as well setup as I am. Run cheap range ammo, then grab some Noslers for hunting season, and don’t forget to re-sight for those first. They’re threaded, so you’ll be able to add a suppressor down the road, when you have the budget.

Wes Siler is your guide to leading a more exciting life outdoors. You can read more about what he’s doing on Substack through this link. Want to read more articles like this one? Consider supporting independent journalism through a paid subscription.